WINTER 2025 • 4 FEBRUARY — 10 FEBRUARY 2025
Takayama & Nagoya
The tldr
Accommodation — Ryokan-style Airbnb
Two-storey ryokan-style airbnb, cute and quaint, a little further from train station by foot, but about 10mins by taxi or 15mins by bus. Loved the addition of the Japanese tub (it was a literal vat), actually quite shiok to soak on cold wintry nights.
The vibe — low-travel season
We went during the colder months of winter so I guess it was less people than expected (but still quite a significant tourist crowd especially in the more known and must-see places like Shirakawa-go)
Transport — bought the 7-day pass which covers JR (Japan Railroad) and Nagoya Meitetsu line
Got the 7-day JR pass for our 8-day trip. The JR pass would have covered all the places we intended to go to (circled in JR map below) — Nagoya, Gero, Takayama, Shirakawa-go, Toyama.
Food — lotsa Hida beef, miso dishes with their local, darker type of miso
We kinda ate the same things in Takayama region (mostly Hida-beef-everything, some miso dishes which is the region's specialty) and good sushi and yakiniku when we were back in the city in Nagoya, courtesy of the best host, Aunty J <3
Weather in Winter — crazy cold and snowy, averaging 0°C, made it hard to do many activities (even sightseeing)
We went in the lower-peak periods of winter (February), it's less crowded cuz it's colder then. Did not expect the weather to be so harsh i.e. a few consecutive days of snowstorms which led to closure of train tracks (and the eventual rip of my shoes by the end of the trip) so we were stuck mainly in Takayama for 4 days. (although we had originally planned to use it as a base to take day trips to other nearby cities.)
Personally wouldn't rlly recommend going during Feb cuz of the unpredictable weather, but I guess if I think about it in a positive way it was really an experience we would have never had as tropical gals.
Guide to the Gifu and Aichi prefectures
We flew into Nagoya, landed in Chubu Centrair International Airport. We got the 7-day JR pass cuz most of the places we wanted to go to were on the JR lines (marked in blue below).
Our eventual itinerary (we had planned to use Takayama as our base for accoms and travel out each day via JR pass to nearby cities but the original plan got interrupted by snowstorms and subsequent train closures):
Day 1: Landed in Nagoya, train to Takayama
Day 2: Shirakawa-go (take bus from Takayama Bus Station, or JR train)
Day 3: Morning in Takayama, Afternoon in Hida-Furukawa
Day 4: Nagoya (take local train from Takayama JR Station, or JR train)
Day 5: Nagoya (reunion with our Japanese family friend + back to city life!)
Day 6: Nagoya (rented a car: Takashimaya, Port Of Nagoya Public Aquarium, Nagoya Castle, omakase, and a despo supper night out)
Day 7: Nagoya -> Singapore via Chubu Intl Airport
All the spots, at a glance (Click on name of place to go to gmaps link)
Takayama
(Sightseeing):
(Food):
Sakaguchiya
(Day trips from Takayama):
Shirakawa-go (we went by bus from Takayama Bus Station)
Hida-Furukawa (by train from Takayama Train Station)
- - - - - - -
Day 1: Landed in Nagoya, train to Takayama
Landed in Chubu International Airport
Chubu International Airport - Nagoya: 28 mins via μ-SKY Limited Express train
Lunch in Nagoya station
Nagoya - Takayama: JR train (in the direction of Toyama)
Jap meal on SQ was saba fish
Red-eye flight into Nagoya = sunrise!
Airport trf from Chubu airport to Nagoya main station
Settled our first meal at Nagoya station
Weekdas only menu
Love the Japanese n their variety of sauces, each for a v specific part
Nagoya in Japanese
Dis older lady serving looks
Nagoya — Takayama (where we're based for the next few days before coming back to Nagoya for the last few days)
Our JR train ride from Nagoya Station to Takayama Station. Beautiful views and clear blue skies.
Checked into our ryokan-style Airbnb, rested a bit
Headed out for our first dinner in Takayama, chose a random place we found on google maps. This area is known for Hida beef so that's what we went for
Day 1 adrenaline and excitement led us to a second dinner. We chose a nearby sushi place that we found on gmaps, had the whole upstairs tatami area to ourselves so we started playing some drawing competition game using the paper chopstick holders as our drawing pads (ok despos)
First sight of the mountain views n traditional houses
Clear blue skies on Day 1
Snow-covered sloped roofs on the traditional houses
Cute bare (but snow-covered) trees
China numba wan, also sg w the orderliness 🫡
Our airbnb, good for bigger families
So quaint
How it looked once the sun set
Some sights on our walk to dinner, love the snow-covered trees n low-rise traditional houses
Everything seemed very stuck in a different era, small town vibe
Loved the largely brown/beige/dark wood aesthetic of the old town
It snowed a lil while we were having our dinner, it was pretty magical bcuz it was not too heavy (foreshadowing of the next few days in Takayama…)
Day 1 dinner (Hida beef sets mainly)
Day 1 adrenaline and excitement led us to a second dinner (sushi place)
Second dinner of some sushi n sashimi
Day 2: Shirakawa-go (from Takayama by bus) + Spoiler Alert: hit by one of the worst snowstorms (i.e. second worst in our bus driver's career)
Woke up the next morning to a ankle/shin-deep snow from the heavy snowfall the previous night (this lvl of snow wld set the tone of the rest of the trip). First time seeing so much snow (this record wld be overtaken in a few day's time o_O), was so novel to us and we started taking lotsa pics n vids
Missed the first bus from Takayama to Shirakawa-go so we chilled at a nearby cafe for some dranks n were being tourists taking photos on the street w the 10cm thick snow on everything (benches, roofs, cars, trees) except the roads cuz somehow the city is very efficient in clearing the roads of the snow every morning
Stepped outta the ryokan to this view
We were O_O by all this snow
Amazed by all the snow everywhere, even stopped to snow-angel on the walk to the train station
Missed the Takayama-Shirakawa-go bus so we waited for the next one at a cafe nearby
Bro's hot choc
Ofc only tourists (from tropical ctries) r gna sit on a 10cm-thick snow-covered bench. Super cute trees too
The houses and streetscape are rlly so beautiful. The colour palette, street lamps, snow… Issa vibe man
Bro was mad n fomo when we took so long w the photos while he was waiting inside w his hot choc
Us finally in the queue for the Shirakawa-go bus. All smiles :O)
Boarded the bus from Takayama bus station to Shirakawa-go in lovely, sunny weather, complete with clear blue skies. This bus had a relatively longer queue cuz most ppl who come to Takayama are mainly here to see Shirakawa-go as well (for its famed traditional houses and views etc).
Views on the bus otw to Shirakawa-go—still clear blue skies, sunny
More views otw there
More views n cute houses
BUT WHO KNEW we would arrive to a crazy snowstorm in Shirakawa-go. Alighted the bus, literally walked about 100m to hide in the nearest restaurant we found on google maps. A queue started forming behind us shortly after, cuz everyone else had to take shelter from that crazy snowstorm too. Idk if we didn't check the weather for that day or what but the weather started out so good in Takayama and also there were so many ppl in the queue to Shirakawa-go too O_O
(Spoiler alert: we only stayed in Shirakawa-go for lunch lol despite the 1h+ ride from Takayama to Shirakawa-go and 2h+ for the ride back.) (also additional ~1h queue for the bus)
Vs when we arrived in Shirakawa-go. Literally could not see past 100m
This was when we first arrived n fam could still smile LOL you can tell the snow was PELTING down. look at the umbrella lol
U can see how heavy the snow was coming down here + spot the icicles
The restaurant we took shelter in. Had hida beef sets agn
Using sissy's cam. Smile of relief after scoring a table
The restaurant was in one of these traditional houses
If you compare the height of the snow on the roof to the woman's height O_O i think it's probz 1m high or more. U can see the snow on the ground is about up to their hips too
Still crazy snowstorm after lunch. But I guess we gotta see the famed traditional houses of this town (just in way more snow than usual)
Super cold n windy. Cld barely even take my hands out of my pockets to take photos
Bro made the executive decision to take the bus back to Takayama right after lunch cuz any later and it might be too dangerous (slippery and dark) for buses to operate on the roads i.e. we might be stranded in Shirakawa-go without any accoms if we didn't go back rn.
We queued at the Shirakawa-go bus station and it was so crowded. The indoor area was also filled to the brim with tourists, so the bus queue was a whole loop around the bus station compound. And the snow was so thick and so much that we were using umbrellas and regularly throwing off the snow that had formed on the surface of our umbrellas LOL. Queued for about 1 hour I think, I can't imagine living and having to go to work in such crazy snow storms o_O
When we finally got on the bus, we were so cold cuz we had been waiting in probz negative degree celsius weather for about 1 hour. Bus ride felt soooo long cuz he had to drive more carefully and slowly I think, it took about 2 hours. The outside also looked so gloomy and it was hard to see far anyway.
The bus driver had to stop halfway during the bus ride back to put chains on the wheels too (mad respect man, imagine doing that in a snowstorm), to make it more grippy to the ground I suppose. Truly hats off to that bus driver!!! And rlly random, but he also had the best English we heard all trip (kinda rando for it to be a bus driver but yeah) so his regular announcements over the PA could be understood, thank god, they were rlly reassuring too in all that madness. It was also a huge relief cuz at the bus station it was so chaotic cuz nobody knew what was happening cuz of the communication barrier (since snowstorms don't happen on the daily n they probz didn't know how to handle the crazy crowd and all the tourists.)
While alighting the bus, my mom n dad gave an appreciation shoutout to the bus driver cuz my mom was near the wheel area n cld see him doing the chains on wheels stuff in the mad storm. And the bus driver replied that it was the second worst storm he had ever driven in in his years of his bus driver career. Wow that was CRAZY man. Even tho we were travelling during the low(er) season (February), I wldnt have expected suchhhh crazy extent of snow/storm.
A mad queue had formed at the Takayama station too cuz I think the JR trains were being halted due to the storm too
Walked nearby to a izakaya place to chill cuz the storm was still being crazy
Still rlly cold + snowfall outside so we stayed the whole afternoon at that izakaya for an early dinz. Self-entertained with games agn, theme here was Disney (mine was the lion king one)
From bro's cam. Exiting the dinz place n taking photos at in the night snowfall cuz q vibes
Nonstop snowfall + literal icicles forming on the lights
Came home for a hot soak in the tub, now I know y Japs love their tubs
Day 3: Morning in Takayama (Miyagawa morning market + exploring the old town); Afternoon in Hida-Furukawa
Honestly may have been scarred from the crazy snowstorm in Shirakawa-go the previous day, so we stayed in Takayama on Day 3.
Everyday we open this door to see how much snow has gathered outside
An empty plot of land between houses + snowfall the prev night = snow angel. Here's bro mid-freefall
Mom also made a snow angel
Much better weather tdy!! Off to walk to the morning market
Views otw to the Miyagawa morning market, beautiful views while walking along the Miyagawa river
Sucha beautiful trad bldg behind
V cute traffic signage n mirror
Honestly magical views
Shrine near the market
The Miyagawa Market was actually pretty touristy and small, so that was underwhelming. But the old town is quite cute la just to explore and walk around. So I'd say skip the morning market and explore the old town. In the old town, I went into some shops selling ceramics, chopsticks, enamel utensils etc, just to look look see see, also had many traditional restaurants and dessert shops here.
We stopped by a restaurant in the old town for lunch, it's called Sakaguchiya and mainly serves Hida beef sets. We rlly liked everything we had here and it was pretty affordable for its quality and quantity. We even came back again for our last meal in Takayama.
Ok mom n sis
Bro n popz
Rlly intricate n all-wood interior in this restaurant, like many others in the old town
We rlly liked the food here. Came back once more for our last meal in Takayama
Also rlly liked the tea here, waitress said it was hojicha from a nearby tea shop so I bought some home :O)
The outdoor garden area of the restaurant bldg
Continued walking around the old town of Takayama. Had some dessert (Cremia) and then headed out of the town for the afternoon.
Our dessert
Me + Miffy lamp + snow all over my hair
Exploring old town of Takayama
Keeping warm while waiting for the train = group hugs
Empty train = sis takes tiktoks + teaches bro how to take a fit pic
The viewssssss on the train ride to our next destination—Hida Furukawa (approx 30mins)
Took the train to nearby Hida-Furukawa. Kind of a sleepy town with not much to do so we didn't stay long, I guess it's more a residential town rather than the other more popular touristy destinations in the area like Shirakawa-go etc. All our original plans had changed since the Shirakawa-go snowstorm and consequently trains not operating longer distances. So we cldnt go to the further places we originally had in mind and had to adjust the whole itinerary on each day.
Rlly interesting traditional bldg
This town was pretty dead (not as frequented as the usual places ppl go to when in this region of Japan)
Lamp is so cute w the thick snow
Thank god for a clear day
Explored the town for abit (see how much snow on the sidewalks O_O)
So interesting to see how the snow piles up on different objects
Some paper rings n paper totoros from some nearby tourism office or sth
Stopped by a cafe agn for teatime
These r real flowers. I've never rlly seen sucha filled n big vase before
Cute drawing/postcard thing at the tourism office or sth
Beautiful snowy mountain views
Sis built a snowman randomly on the sidewalk
Regular objects looking funny cuz of the snow
Sun shining on the mountain behind
Didn't stay for long in this town, this was the view on the train ride back
Day 4: Takayama -> Nagoya
It was fiiinally our last day in Takayama. We originally wanted to use Takayama as a base and do day trips to different nearby towns via train covered by the JR pass. But due to the super unforeseen weather conditions, we cldnt go to many of these other towns that we had planned to visit. So it felt super long in Takayama actually.
Clear skies on our last day here lol. Checked out and took the bus to old town for lunch
On the bus ride. Bye Miyagawa River
Hida beef on rice crackers, v overpriced but we're tourists n last day here so just try
This was the tea shop the waitress talked about. Bought some hojicha, matcha and genmaicha here
Zhao cai mao w a chef's hat made of snow
Had to take the local trains to Nagoya (much longer journey) due to train tracks servicing etc cuz of prev days' storms
Takayama -> Nagoya. Had to take a longer route via the local trains and change a few trains due to the situation with the trains and tracks due to the bad weather in the previous week.
LOL somehow everyone (including bro) playing pokemon on the train
Finally arrived in Nagoya, put our stuff down in the airbnb n headed for dinz
Mom zipping sis up before heading out. Bye sis (not an inch of skin)
Day 5: Nagoya (reunion with our Japanese family friend + back to city life!)
Went to Takashimaya to have some light snacks/breakfast, and also to meet our Japanese family friend that would be arriving from Tokyo at the Nagoya Station.
Then we walked around Osu Shopping Street for a while (it's pretty touristy) but we managed to walk to a nicer shopping street (I think it was Sakae), the shops here were cooler.
So overwhelmed by the food hall. Soooo many bread, pastry, cake shops
Our brekkie haul for 5
The besties reunion
Window shopped around Osu Shopping Street, it's pretty touristy. Went into some vtg shops with sis
Aunty J brought the rest of my fam to a maid cafe while they were waiting for me n sis LOL
Cute lights
For dinz, Aunty J booked a yakiniku place for us, Jojoen Nagoya. It was rllllly yummy, v good quality meats in a more upscale setting.
And it was fun catching up n reminiscing w her :') She even gave us a Jap angpow each (the print is so cute—it said "I hope there is lots of good things" in Japanese), so sweet of her <3 I loved the salad sauce they used at the restaurant and Aunty J said they sell it commercially at the supermarkets so she got me a bottle :')
Sakae, Nagoya
11am-10pm
V yummy yakiniku at Jojoen Nagoya🤤
Icecream n bowls n table also cute
The Jap angpow so cute leh. It says "I hope there is lots of good things" yess
She then brought us to the Nagoya TV Tower to see the city views.
Nagoya Mirai Tower / Chubu Electric Power Mirai Tower
Nagoya
10am-9pm
Nagoya TV Tower by night
The mascot is a polar bear love that leh. The Japanese r great at making cute mascots, graphic design always 10/10
😬
View from the top, spot Nagoya Castle
LDR besties reunited
Winter fit check
Day 6: Nagoya (renting a car for a fully packed touristy day—Port Of Nagoya Public Aquarium, Nagoya Castle, omakase, and a despo supper)
This was our second day in Nagoya, which was a jam-packed touristy day!! So we started the day early and went off to collect our rental cars. Aunty J had recommended us to rent a car cuz it was easier to get around since we were hitting up many spots—she excitedly planned all of the Nagoya itinerary, truly blessed by the best host <3). One sedan for Mom, bro, sis and I, another for Aunty J and Pops—Aunty J said she needed a quiet passenger to focus on the road LOL)
Sure enough, the car came in handy and also the roads seemed quite peaceful and empty to drive on (my useless opinion as a backseat passenger princess o_O).
Headed to JR Nagoya Takashimaya for TAKANO Fruit Parlour. Aunty J was very excited to show and intro us to this especially because it was strawberry season so they have a whole strawberry menu full of strawberry cakes and parfaits.
TAKANO Fruit Parlour JR Nagoya
Nagoya
10am-8pm
More cute graphic design on our food packaging (love the attention to detail and design on every small thing in Japan) (except jap web design which is so weirdly cluttered)
Leftover bread n pastries haul from the prev day for brekkie
Super cute calendar at the car rental place—it's seasonal! Skiing for Feb and strawberries for March!
Our rental car!
Collected our car! Starring mom as driver, bro as frontseat GPS guy, sis n I as backseat guys (there for the vibes)
Shopping ard n ended up at the electronics floor of the dept store), while the mothers chatted n waited in queue for fruit parfaits
Menu goes craaazy at TAKANO Fruit Parlour (JR Nagoya Takashimaya Branch 4F)
A true skinny legend. So skinny n such a thicccc layer of cream yet so structurally sound
Shared this among the 6 of us. Very light fresh cream and yums Jap strawberries
Next on Aunty J's itinerary was the Port of Nagoya Aquarium. The weather was also really sunny and perfect for a touristy day touring the sights (in large contrast to the many days of snowstorms we previously had in Takayama).
I'm always amazed at beautiful sea creatures (not just the animals, but the corals, the shells and their patterns, textures and vibrant colours). It always makes me so in awe of nature and how these things exist naturally. But now that I'm older, idk how to feel bout zoos n aquariums since these creatures are in enclosures instead of in the wild. But then again it was also nice to see many families and their kids' excitement at the dolphin shows, sharks, other sea creatures.
Port of Nagoya Public Aquarium
Nagoya
930am-8pm
Went to a dolphin show at the aquarium
Mini carnival thingy near the Aquarium building. Carousel of flying anpan men under a UFO issa vibe
The view towards the Port of Nagoya
Always love watching the jellyfish
Cool coral patterns
Japanese crabs O_O and a side eye from a photobombing fish
Spot the starfish
Turtle casually looking n posing for the cam (the cam was totes not focusing on the foreground, just the main characters :~))
By the aquarium tank
Went to a dolphin show at the aquarium
Near the Port of Nagoya
Besties catchin' up n yappin' away
Next stop, Nagoya Tower! Tbh I think it's pretty much like every other castle in Japan (no h8 no disrespect) but the experience was still pretty special because of the little things we saw on the way like a group of cats who had climbed all the way to the top of the entrance roof, the temple before the actual Nagoya Castle and its beautiful curved timber roof, and the cutest shiba inu in samurai outfit with his stylish parents (all photos below):
Nagoya
9am-430pm
I thought the building at the entrance before the Nagoya Castle was actually even more beautiful (also probz cuz u get to see it more up close—the gold details, the dark roof, the darker wood)
The Nagoya Castle n many birds flying above it
The details of the wooden curved roof
3 cats having a srs meeting near the roof of the entrance
The chalk art signage at the icecream shop in the Nagoya Castle compound. Featuring probz the black cat (left photo) n the gold detail at the top of the castle. cute
Besties still yappin' ~
Honestly the best dressed family ever hehe spot Mr Shiba Samurai
Cutest dog n dog outfit ever n so apt that he dressed for the occasion! to visit the Nagoya Castle
More folks that dressed for the occasion—first time seeing winter kimono fashion :o)
And to end off the packed day, Aunty J brought us to an omakase place for dinner, proper sushi chef and all. I think that was my first time at an omakase place in Japan so it was quite a special experience. also that the place was chosen and recommended by a Japanese local, I was very excited to try and it didn't disappoint!
Kanazawa Maimon Sushi UMEBACHITEI
Nagoya
11am-3pm, 5pm-10pm
The sushi restaurant is in this shopping mall building, on the higher floors where the restaurants are. The mall here also has pretty cool and stylish shops. (It seems most of the malls, shops in Sakae area are pretty hiiiip)
Nagoya
9am-430pm
Food perfect, dining ware perfect, service perfect, ambience perfect, chefs srs af n w the highest pride in their craft we love to see it
Nigiri platter, we had one platter each (also reinforced in me during this trip that Jap food is v un-family-style, everyone has their own set own platter vibes
Tuna hehehe. I've also upgraded recently to eat wasabi (n i love it…)
Super srs chefs 🫡
With the best host <3 us outside the sushi place
Winter illuminations on the drive to return the rental car
Sushi dinz ended kinda early n the kids felt like the night was still young + it was our last night in Japan so we spontaneously (or desperately) went out nearby for some dranks n supper (it was bad, we shldnt have been so despo to go out).
Before the dranks, I also went to get new shoes cuz I only had one pair which broke (the sole fell out from the shoe) probz cuz of all dat snow ~terrain~. It was a pair I bought years back in Taiwan, chunky soles, waterproof n all, so I usually wear it in winter. Night was still young vibes but shops were closing already so I ruuuushed to Nagoya JR station's and luckily I found a pair of loafers at GU (also my first time at GU).
More graphic design at the subway. Good design doesn't need language or explanation 🫡
Dis crazy gachapon bag LOL grown man exemplifying business in the front, party in the back attitude. we love to see it agn
Our rlly bad supper that ended off the trip (will save you from the food photos)
Day 7: Nagoya -> Singapore
Woke up early for our early flight back to sg from Chubu International Airport, managed to catch the sunrise partially (0642 but the sky was already bright)
Aunty J was gna catch a train back to Tokyo but she sent us to the airport omg she's too sweet la :') Said not goodbye but see you again to her! (Hopefully, probably in Tokyo, my mom say for her 60th birthday lol
Sunrise sky
On the airport express to the airport (the sun glistening on the ocean~)
Despo matcha at the airport (I think I hadn't had any matcha on the trip till this one)
Clingy besties photo at the airport
Nagoya from above (I think)
Saying see you again to Aunty J—next time probz in Tokyo!
Last meal this trip: Ramen at airport
Looked over n ofc my 21yro sis watching Snoopy o^~^o
Takeoff
Tea haul hehehe (most of the non-matcha bought from Takayama, matcha bought in Chubu airport lol)
A Jap snack Aunty J gifted us at the end of the trip. Mental note that the brand is Konigs-Krone cuz it was q good n moreish
I finished my whole matcha stash within Feb-June I think n I was alr rationing it out ;(
- - - - - - -
Notes from the Road
I was quite excited to be heading back to Japan but had lower expectations cuz it was an area/region I had seen less on (social) media. But it was beautiful (when it was not snowstorming). Even during the snowstorms, it was quite eye-opening for us tropical folk to see. I generally love being surrounded by mountains so being around snow-covered ones was extra beautiful and magical. It was also really interesting seeing the different types of traditional architecture here, and I loved the dark wood tones of most of the buildings in Hida prefecture (such as in the old town of Takayama).
The snowstorm also totally changed our plans which had not happened much in our other family holidays. It forced us (in a good way) to be more adaptable and plan according to each day's weather (taking each day as it comes kinda vibe rather than being dead set on well-laid out plans).
And also, we had more family time together during really stormy days when it was too cold outside—like when we stayed a whole afternoon at an izakaya ordering drinks and snacks and playing drawing games. Come to think of it, we did that at a sushi place (tatami seating) too.
I guess that's how people who live in temperate regions take things, really one day at a time, cuz their daily lives in winter end up being affected by heavy snowfall, snowstorms etc. I remembered travelling on the roads in Takayama and seeing homeowners clearing heaaaps and piiiiles of snow on their front yard, hedges, car windscreens and doorsteps after a heavy day of snowfall the previous day. Also, trucks and road workers clearing the roads in the early mornings for vehicular safety, so traffic still goes on as per usual. It looked like a lot of work we don't even have to think about here in our tropical lives.
The city of Nagoya is pretty cool and metropolitan. The shopping streets, or at least what we had time to cover, were quite upscale and well-curated too (like Sakae area). We managed to visit some vintage fashion and vintage designer stores (types of stores that Tokyo/Japan are known for). I think I wouldn't go out of my way to visit Nagoya again tbh but I might stop by Shirakawa-go if I'm ever nearby to see what it looks like in better weather and other seasons. Thankful for yet another fun, chill and self-entertaining fam trip.
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